If you haven’t already, go and take a look at part one of this tutorial, adjusting the front pattern, HERE.First off, like I said in part one, in order to make it a bigger top I added 1″ to the side seam of the pattern and then 1/2″ to the neckline, shoulder, and the armhole. Do not add anything to the hem of the back bodice. I didn’t do the long-sleeve versions so I didn’t have to worry about adjusting those. Next, you need to put your top bodice of the back pattern next to the front pattern with the side seams together in order to make a mark on the front pattern of where it ends. You also need to transfer the notch from the front pattern to the back pattern. There is a 5/8″ notch difference because that’s the seam allowance for this pattern. Then once you’ve marked where the back bodice pattern ended on your front pattern you will measure from that line to the end of the new front dress pattern we made. This way you know how long much length needs to be added to the back peplum. Keep this measurement handy, you’ll need it in one of the next steps. Feel free to annotate that measurement on your pattern for future reference. Next you need to do the same shoulder adjustment you did to the front armhole and shoulder. Up 1″ and to the side 3″. Then use the curved ruler to create a nice, smooth curve on the armhole. Transfer the rest of the pattern to paper. (BEFORE CUTTING THIS PATTERN OUT READ THE REST OF THE POST BECA– USE AN ADJUSTMENT IS MADE LATER TO THIS SPOT.)Now grab your peplum. You should only need to add 1″ to the side seam in order to make the peplum fit perfectly to the back bodice. Don’t worry about the hem or the waist, this stays the same. After this is done, you are going to need the measurement you took from the second notch you made on the front pattern (where the back top bodice ended) to the bottom of your new front dress pattern. This is how long you’ll need the new peplum to be. Mine was 27.5 inches. I laid my peplum with the center back along the straight edge of my pattern paper roll so that I knew it would be straight. Then I just made a line from the top to where the 27.5 inches mark was. I then brought that same measurement to the center back and made a slight curve towards the side seam. I said slight! Don’t make it too curvy or else you’ll get a really wacky looking hem. For the most even looking hem, make it straight. That’s it for the pattern work, you can now lay the patterns on the fabric and start cutting. Just don’t forget to transfer all notches to the new pattern pieces. I used a black and white cotton fabric I bought at Joann’s a year or so ago but hadn’t found a project to use it for. It ended up being perfect. I sewed it up exactly the same as I did the top and for the waist tie (which I didn’t alter at all) I used the black stripe on the edge of the fabric so it wouldn’t go to waste. Once I started sewing and was ready to finish the armholes and neck with bias binding I saw that my alteration to the shoulder/armhole created a sharp point which I was not going for. So I had to cut it off before sewing. I used this cut off scrap to adjust my patterns.
I did the same adjustment to the front and back shoulder/armhole pattern.
Once that adjustment was made the point was gone and it was now smooth. Your new adjusted pattern will create the same smooth shoulder next time you cut it out. Now for the final photos. I LOVE LOVE LOVE this dress! I think it came out so pretty and it flows so well, plus it’s super comfy! I’ll definitely be sewing up another one of these dresses in several different fabric choices. What do y’all think? Would y’all do this alteration to your Branson Top? Leave me a comment and don’t forget to pin, share, or tweet this post if you think others would benefit from it! Until next time, Stay creative!
ღ Reyna Lay ღ
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